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I got my G2 with display today.
Build Date 2023-10-08, Build Version 2.2-DL1YCF,
WDSP Version 1.23, Device: saturm Protocol 2 v1.0
The S-meter always shows S9 even without an antenna!
-73dBm is approximately S9, -33dBm is S9+40dB.
If I press the PTT without a microphone, a very
heavily damaged carrier. Even if I have PTT and microphone
If you connect it, you won't hear any modulation, just that
Hum. It doesn't matter at both entrances front and back
whether antenna or dummy!

Hi Roger,

Sorry to hear of your issues with the new G2. Have you tried hooking the G2 to Thetis and if so what version of Thetis? Latest should be v2.10.2.2.

I too hear a hum with no microphone connected to my G2 when I PTT the rig and I thought this maybe inherent to the issue I am having with poor audio.

Hi Leslie,
I only use my G2 with piHPSDR. I suspect that my G2 has a fundamental problem. How do I explain that I have noise on the S9 even without an antenna. I'm attaching two pictures. Once with and once without an antenna.

https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/IS4eH9OHRfWFj5N2hN5hNg
https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/z6vjalKCS3yeG4NR56L6wA

Its insane to think that a 4000 euro radio can be shipped in this dysfunctional state. There's no excuse for this. Quality control is non-existent it seems.

Roger GT wrote:Hi Leslie,
I only use my G2 with piHPSDR. I suspect that my G2 has a fundamental problem. How do I explain that I have noise on the S9 even without an antenna. I'm attaching two pictures. Once with and once without an antenna.

https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/IS4eH9OHRfWFj5N2hN5hNg
https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/z6vjalKCS3yeG4NR56L6wA

Turn the AGC gain down it is wide open. These radios don't have to have AGC cranked.

Hi,

Some of your setting need to be corrected:

1. AGC value should be around 80
2. I would suggest using 15-20dB attenuation whilst using the lower bands.

Regards,

Tony

Roger GT wrote:Hi Leslie,
I only use my G2 with piHPSDR. I suspect that my G2 has a fundamental problem. How do I explain that I have noise on the S9 even without an antenna. I'm attaching two pictures. Once with and once without an antenna.

https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/IS4eH9OHRfWFj5N2hN5hNg
https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/z6vjalKCS3yeG4NR56L6wA

S9 without antenna is also on 10 and 6M. I have the S-meter correct with a measuring transmitter. The value is -12dB. I corrected the threshold to 80. I will watch it.

When transmitting (only PTT without mic) a signal is sent out. It's on the antenna and the dummy.
Picture 1 80M on the antenna
Picture 2 80m on the dummy
Picture 3 10M on the dummy
You can also see it on the screen of TS-890.
Does somebody has any idea?
It's the same for all connections. (3.5mm front & back and XLR 6.3mm)

https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/B ... Wd0NffTsVg
https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/h ... 3RAHoNLXmA
https://c.gmx.net/@324904017886970427/k ... OmrEsa7oDw

Hi Roger,

From what I have heard the XLR input has more amplification than the mic
input. You should turn that down from 50 to something under 30.

When you change from XLR to front or rear mic input you also need to change
the setting in pihpsdr:




-Rick / N1GP

When using the front panel Mic Jack, even though your Mic is on TIP, and PTT pn Ring, you have to select the opposite in the "Radio" menu. Don't know why this can't be corrected in pihpsdr code!


John
N2KBE

JohnFT61 wrote:When using the front panel Mic Jack, even though your Mic is on TIP, and PTT pn Ring, you have to select the opposite in the "Radio" menu. Don't know why this can't be corrected in pihpsdr code!

The front and back 3.5mm jacks are in parallel, but at the front tip and ring are mixed up. Either change in firmware will left one jack mixed up.

No FPGA change needed. Just have 2 selections in Thetis and pihpsdr:

Mic on Tip, PTT on Ring

pihpsdr Mic on Tip, PTT on Ring (where it actually selects the opposite from what Thetis uses)



John
N2KBE

The "mic jack connections swapped" issue can be corrected by modifying a cable in the radio. essentially two wires on a ribbon cable would need to be swapped over. In the cable going from the Saturn board to the front panel, swap over pins 10 and 9. Those are the two pins closest to the board edge, and on my cable they are coloured brown and red.

Laurence,

I know that this is more a volunteer project than an industrial product like Kenwood TRXs..

BUT for 4000 bucks I would expect some kind of mod kit from the "factory" like the fan mod ANAN7000.

73

Volker
DL4ZBG

Volker,

The modified cables have been ordered and will be provided FOC once available.

Regards,

Tony

dl4zbg wrote:Laurence,

I know that this is more a volunteer project than an industrial product like Kenwood TRXs..

BUT for 4000 bucks I would expect some kind of mod kit from the "factory" like the fan mod ANAN7000.

73

Volker
DL4ZBG

Sending now works thanks to the help of Norbert DL8LAQ. Thanks for that. The only error is the receiver. After switching on in the morning and no antenna (all connections are unused), the noise floor is only -121dBm. After 20 minutes only RX still without antenna the noise floor is even worse at -116dBm. There are also clear noises of interference on the screen. Is this a design flaw or software?

administrator wrote:Volker,

The modified cables have been ordered and will be provided FOC once available.

Regards,

Tony

dl4zbg wrote:Laurence,

I know that this is more a volunteer project than an industrial product like Kenwood TRXs..

BUT for 4000 bucks I would expect some kind of mod kit from the "factory" like the fan mod ANAN7000.

73

Volker
DL4ZBG

good to read that, TNX

Volker

The only thing missing from this is the timeframe for when you will get those cables?

Maybe take a look at this post and decide for yourself.
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4873

Don't hold your breath waiting for those cables, you might be waiting a long time.

dl4zbg wrote:Laurence,

I know that this is more a volunteer project than an industrial product like Kenwood TRXs..

BUT for 4000 bucks I would expect some kind of mod kit from the "factory" like the fan mod ANAN7000.

73

Volker
DL4ZBG

Yes for more than 4,000USD you'd expect far better service that's not hidden behind excuses of software blame and user configuration.

From their website company profile.

So, many problems have been solved thanks to the great help from Norbert DL8LAQ. With TeamViewer and VNC Viewer we have made my G2 ready for me to use. The WiFi connection is not reliable but I can live with that. So I can start the first test on the frequencies this evening.

Unfortunately my joy was too early. piHPSDR randomly stops and restarts on RX and TX. piHPSDR reacts very slowly to changes such as band changes or frequency changes and other changes. WiFi and Bluetooth don't work. The microphone input rushes like a waterfall no matter which microphone is used (all dynamic). So the way the device is now, it is unusable.

Mic audio sounding like a rushing waterfall is indicative of too much gain somewhere, perhaps Mic or Leveler or ALC Gain or Compression. Suggest you back all of your gains down, then start increasing them only as needed.

Mark

Byron,
I don't want to destroy your hope, but my G2 with 100 watts doesn't work properly to this day. I suspect it won't be any better with 1000 watts. . .

And what does "doesn't work properly " mean exactly?

Roger GT wrote:Byron,
I don't want to destroy your hope, but my G2 with 100 watts doesn't work properly to this day. I suspect it won't be any better with 1000 watts. . .

I have 6 close friends who have received a new G2 (one of them got one of the very first ones delivered). They all run THETIS and experience zero problems. I suggest you post on the forum, in the appropriate section, you specific issues and see if someone can help you solve your problem. Again, in my personal circle of friends, 6 of 6 new G2 (100 watts) are running flawlessly.

As for me, I patiently await my G2-1K. To date, I have purchased 5 ANANs and they have all run flawlessly. Are you sure you are using the correct version of THETIS? Post your issue (again, on the correct forum page) and 99% of the time there is someone who can help you resolved your issue.

GOOD LUCK & 73,
David
WR4N

WR4N wrote:

Roger GT wrote:Byron,
I don't want to destroy your hope, but my G2 with 100 watts doesn't work properly to this day. I suspect it won't be any better with 1000 watts. . .

I have 6 close friends who have received a new G2 (one of them got one of the very first ones delivered). They all run THETIS and experience zero problems. I suggest you post on the forum, in the appropriate section, you specific issues and see if someone can help you solve your problem. Again, in my personal circle of friends, 6 of 6 new G2 (100 watts) are running flawlessly.

As for me, I patiently await my G2-1K. To date, I have purchased 5 ANANs and they have all run flawlessly. Are you sure you are using the correct version of THETIS? Post your issue (again, on the correct forum page) and 99% of the time there is someone who can help you resolved your issue.

GOOD LUCK & 73,
David
WR4N

I'm with you 100% David.

I have a G2 with a display and use it with piHPSDR. WiFi and Bluetooth don't work. When I go to the VOX menu, I see modulation even though only 12 volts, wireless mouse and keyboard are connected. If VOX is enabled, the transmitter is switched to TX. As I said. There is only 12 volts physically connected to the G2. I didn't expect the G2 to be perfect, but the G2 can't be used like that. Is there an image that makes the device work properly and where can I download it? I expected more from a $4000 device than what I got.

Wireless/bluetooth might work if you reduce the Sample Rate in Setup/Audio...try 6000 for bluetooth and wireless may be able to do higher.
Both those protocols are not designed for high-speed sample rates.

Is your wireless 2.4GHz? What does an internet speed check show for your bandwidth?

Why do you only have 12V? Even batteries are 13.8V.

WiFi and Bluetooth are not involved in operating piHPSDR on the embedded Pi, therefore changing sample rates will have no bearing on the problem.

Recommend you tackle the WiFi problem first. This is either a hardware problem or a Linux configuration problem.

Get to a Pi command window and type "ip link". This should get you a list of available network interfaces. One of them should be "wlan". If you don't see that on the list then it's possible you have a bad CM4 module, or they accidentally installed a CM4 module without Wifi.

If you do see a wlan interface, then are you familiar with Linux? If not, then it's easy to suspect a Linux config. problem. If you do a Google search for "raspberry pi wifi setup" there are a large number of tutorials and help articles. Same for Bluetooth.

w9mdb wrote:Is your wireless 2.4GHz? What does an internet speed check show for your bandwidth?

Why do you only have 12V? Even batteries are 13.8V.

Of course it is 13.8 volts. The power supply is a GSV3000 and WiFi is 2.4 / 5GHz with ↓ 226.5 Mbps ↑ 45.6 Mbps